Lead Times & Frequently Asked Questions

Most of our items are print to order due to variations. We are actively working on stocking up the more popular housing models, but until then lead times may apply.

We don't offer any type of line jumping or pay for play; orders are shipped as housings become available.

Simply put you need these basic items:

• AR15 Hammer
• AR15 Hammer Spring
• AR15 Trigger (cut for SS if desired)
• AR15 Trigger Spring
• AR15 Disconnector
• AR15 Disconnector Spring
• AR15 Trigger/Hammer pins
• AR15 Safety selector or super safety
• Slip Trip (specific to super safety use w/ MP5 only)

These can be sourced almost anywhere - brand does not matter, basic milspec components are what the kit was designed to be used with. Some customers have reported greater success using heavy or light/weak hammer springs. This entirely depends on your MP5, as all of them are hand made and assembled.

Other customers successfully use Larue MBT, Geissele SSA, and some other well known triggers. Currently the Atrius Dev "selektor" is not compatible.

ARC Fire triggers are compatible with the "ARC" version of housings; contact us or select that version before checkout to ensure compatibility.

That is a great question, and very fair to ask where your money is going.

Simply put, most other vendors are using inferior materials, specifically PLA. Read more below on why we don't use PLA for housings or other crucial components.

I also believe a lot of vendors (hell, most businesses) struggle with understanding their true costs when determining a product's price. A large corporation can look at a market and see what others are charging, and how they can use economies of scale to leverage a very affordable production cost. Small businesses don't have that luxury - I've started several businesses (some successful, most not) and it took me a long time to learn how to understand that. I'm still not entirely sure if I'm doing it right, but time will tell.

Some products actually perform better in PLA because it's much softer than other materials, and can flex while still maintaining it's shape. For firearm housings, I wouldn't pay money for one and here is why:

Simply put: PLA has a lot of downsides: it grows mold over time with exposure to moisture, it cannot be submerged in water, and quite frankly does not look good after some heavy use. Furthermore, when exposed to heat PLA tends to warp and become extremely soft. I'm in Texas, and we often see 105° days - leave a PLA printed item in your car and it is completely unusable. While it would be much easier, faster, and cheaper to use PLA I refuse to sell an inferior product.

You will see other vendors charging $100-$125+ for PLA kits - some will even make you purchase your own SCS plates; this not only increases your wait times, but now any defects become your problem. SCS has a very questionable track record with quality control (hence why we are constantly seeking other suppliers) and part of our goal is ensuring you get a 100% functioning product as soon as you open the box.

If for any reason a part that we supplied is defective, it will be replaced within a timely manner - usually the next business day.

These are all extremely similar materials - without getting into the weeds, PAHT & PPA are different blends prioritizing moisture resistance while PA6 solely focuses on strength.

The downside with PA6 is that is loves moisture, and when it's moisture content gets too high it can bend/warp extremely easily. Typically I don't recommend using PA6 unless you understand the risks. The same goes for hybrid composite blends (e.g. PA612) and the associated products; PA12 is superior in every metric that applies here, without being blended into a material that attracts moisture.

We are currently testing a new brand of PA12 based PPA which will hopefully be less abrasive while still maintaining a course texture that promotes grip adhesion.

Push-pin models will have 2 takedown pins, check near your magazine well - if there is a takedown pin there you have what is known as push-pin.

If blank, your lower is known as clipped/pinned.

Basic breakdown by manufacturer:

Push Pin:

• MKE (Century AP5/AP5-P, early (~2016) Zenith)

• Zenith

• Mac - CERTAIN VERSIONS NOT SUPPORTED - SOME MODIFICATIONS ARE REQUIRED - CLICK HERE

• POF

• Dakota Tactical

Clipped / Pinned:

• HK (SP5, SP5K)

• *PTR - now available!
  
  *PTR has their own special denial block, it is not the same as any other manufacturer

Due to the nature of print-to-order items we can't offer returns or refunds on a majority of products. In the event of a defect in production or incorrect specification we will replace the item.

Contact us if you received an incorrect or faulty product and a replacement will be shipped within a timely manner (usually next business day if in-stock, if not you will be moved to the front of any queue).

Currently we are only using FDM printers, with the intention of contracting out some parts to be made via SLS.

Our exact print settings are proprietary but as of October 2025 we are printing at 300° nozzle temperature, wall speed < 30mm/s, infill/support speed < 40mm/s, solid infill (rectilinear), 8 wall loops; all inside of a heated chamber to ensure no warping. Additionally we use DarkMoon CFX build plates with adhesion promoter to go the extra mile and ensure our housings meet or beat set tolerances.

Ask a company you are considering purchasing from what print settings they use. A lot of people bought a Bambu Labs printer within the last few weeks/months and changed the default profile to have more infill (e.g. "I'm using the default strength profile with added infill"). These profiles print upwards of 300mm/s - the equivalent of a recipe recommending 8 hours but you decide to char-broil it for an hour and call it good. This is ok recreationally, but can't be commercially viable. Parts will break or have internal flaws, infill will not be laid correctly, and layer adhesion will be called into question.